Sunday, February 08, 2009

An end to a journey

Most of you loyal readers likely already know the latest news: I've returned home to the good old USA after almost 8 weeks in Liberia. This is more short-term that I'd originally intended. And let me say first that I am in good health and was mostly safe for most of my service in Liberia. I came home voluntarily for many reasons; the two easiest are that my work was not what I expected and that personally I felt it was time to reconnect with America. Regarding work, there was no job ready for me... I was assigned to teach English in a high school, but with scheduling issues I would have ended up teaching 6 classes in 10 weeks. This is frustrating because I went to Liberia expressly to work, to share my expertise, to really be of use. What is hard is to think of the students I left -- bright 10th and 11th graders who need all the learning they can get so that they might rise out of conflict and into wisdom. The classes were between 90-120 students each, a challenge certainly, especially as most were young men and some were older than me. I feel that I was up to the task, however, and I think that we made the most of the 3 classes we had together. It was curious to be addressed as "Madam" by students, but as the only female teacher on staff, it was understandable that they didn't take easily to calling out "Ms. Williams". I wish that we could have had more time; they deserve a long-term educator. Preferably one who knows the curriculum they are expected to cover and is paid by the Ministry of Education (as in the Soviet reconstruction period, most teachers have gone months without pay).

The second reason for my resignation from Peace Corps was personal. In Liberia, I had many interactions with international workers -- experts from the UN, consultants, NGO staff, etc. One unifying theme they all shared was a distance from their families and home cultures. Yes, it has always been a dream of mine to travel, to live abroad and feel the rush of being foreign, but not at the expense of my family and friends back home. I would like to be a better friend, sister, daughter, or if not better, than at least closer. I may still be awful about picking up the phone to chat, but at least now I have that option.

Liberia itself is a country still struggling, still trying to recover, still trying to hold onto peace and rebuild. Never before have I lived in a place where humans and nature were so bolding interfering with one another. The bush reclaims fallen homes; farmers and road builders burn the bush. The termites and cockroaches believe they own everything; humans try to convince them they are wrong. In many ways it feels like a losing battle: at times I wondered if it wouldn't be better to just leave this land of malaria and mold to the birds and spiders and jungle vines.

Of course, I had the option of leaving. The people of Liberia are boldly choosing the other option: they are coming back. Back from Guinea and the Ivory Coast, back from Sierra Leone and back, even, from the USA. They are brave, they have struggles, and I have nothing but hope and prayers for their success. I wish to see the day when, eventually, the UN will leave, the international NGOs will trickle out, and Liberia will try to stand on its own feet.

Peace Corps will probably still be there on that day, and probably will be there for as long as the government will have them. It was very inspiring to be in a country with such a history of Peace Corps -- former volunteers and FOL, you made some big impressions. My favorite landmark on the drive to Monrovia was a sign in Saclepea boldly proclaiming that they had a PCV from 1963-1965, "mentor, teacher, coach, you will never be forgotten."

Thanks for reading, let you know where the next adventure leads!